Grace on Pace

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Turkish Professional Ice Hockey

Turkish Professional Ice Hockey


Türkiye Buz Hokeyi Federasyonu DİDİ Süper Lig – Turkey Ice Hockey Federation Didi Super League

So I’m sitting on the bench at my beer league hockey game, looking at out the ice, and I’ve got the biggest, dumbest grin plastered on my face.

My line mate leans over and he starts talking to me about passing more or whatever, and I’m almost giggling with delight. I’m so, so, so happy.

“Man…what the fahhk is wrong with you?”

All I can say is, “… Turkish Professional Ice Hockey.”

In 2008, my college hockey career was done. I had been fortunate enough to win an ACHA Division 1 National Championship with University of Rhode Island in 2006 before finishing out my last year of eligibility in graduate school at Michigan Technological University.  But I was still only 35. Even though I couldn’t skate well enough to play pretty much anywhere anymore, I still loved the game and thought I had a chance in Europe during my first overseas posting to Ankara, Turkey.

So I hit up Google and started daydreaming about all the sweet teams I could play for.

Then one day, after asking around a bit in town, I got a call from a guy introducing himself in broken English as “Kaan”.

“We have offer here for you at Capital Stars (Başkent Yıldızları).”

 (long pause)

“Offer?”

“Yes, we give two Bauer sticks if you play us”

“Haha…Ok…Are you guys any good?”

(long pause) I hear Turkish whispering as Khan discusses with someone something.

“No. They no good. Last season win 4 games.”

 “Awesome, where do I sign up!”

Media from our Match with Ankara City Rivals the Silver Skates

So let me preface the rest of this story by saying that I’m a kid from Vermont about to be thrown into a very strange experience on the other side of the world.

I pull into the parking lot at 11:45PM. I’m a bit delirious after trying to take a pre-practice nap after work. This guy takes the gear out of my trunk, just like the “Show” I suppose. Nobody speaks English.

Look, I’m not naive. I’ve traveled abroad quite a bit before. But my first thought at the rink was, Holy shit, this isn’t some tourist destination where I’m gonna fumble around until someone speaks English? Everything’s in Turkish. Like, everything.

So after a while, I start seeing some twenty something’s stroll in. They just stare at me.  A slightly older guy walks in. He points. “OK. USA,” smiling as he head bangs the air.

I just sit on the bench, staring at my hands as they lace up my skates, repeating, What the hell did you do? What the hell did you do?

Sure enough, 12:15 a.m. the Zamboni horn goes off, and I head out for the ice. The fresh cool air helps calm my nerves. I’m telling myself, You’re good. This will be fun. It’s a new experience. Just roll with it. You’ll find some friends on the team.

The five other imports are sitting shoulder-to-shoulder on the bench: One Canadian defenseman, an American center, and three Russians going bananas listening to some Barbra Streisand techno remix on their cell phone.

I’m like, Oh my God. Yes. I’m back, baby!

Türkiye Buz Hokeyi Federasyonu DİDİ Süper Lig - Turkey Ice Hockey Federation Didi Super League
Our Enforcer

We get out onto the ice, and it’s a shitshow. For any US guys reading this right now, let me tell you something: You don’t know how good you have it. A normal practice in Turkey was more frustrating than any day I had ever had on the ice.

I’d mess up a drill and coach would start screaming, “What dee fahhk you doing, Trump?”

Half the time, I had no idea what we were supposed to be doing in the drills. I just rolled with it.

Despite the language barrier, I figure it out. We do the standard stuff. Loop and shoot. Half-moon. Sprints. Whatever.

0.21 seconds in Grace for the Goal!

After practice, I’m heading for my car, and look up …

Half the team is smoking cigarettes.

No words…straight face after two hours of practice.  Looking at me right in the eyes… smoking darts.

This was my first experience with a very strong smoking culture. In Turkey, the smoking era is still in full effect. On the team bus, sixty percent of our players and every single one of our coaches were chain smoking through the duration of the trip. 

Türkiye Buz Hokeyi Federasyonu DİDİ Süper Lig - Turkey Ice Hockey Federation Didi Super League

At this point, you’re probably thinking I’m culturally insensitive or I don’t like Turkey. Just stick with me for a bit.

See, what you have to understand is, living and playing sports in the USA is a fantasy world. It’s a dream come true, but unfortunately you get comfortable, and take it for granted. In Turkey, the kids make due with whatever they can scrounge up.  Packing tape for stick tape, skate steel welded back together, a visor so scratched you couldn’t recognize your mother.  I’ll always regret taking what we had growing up for granted.

That’s why I wouldn’t trade my experience in Turkey for anything in the world. Because when I finally get out onto the ice for our first game, here’s what I experience:

They skate the imports. Then they skate us some more. You’re dying. You just got punched in the face or steam rolled after a buddy pass. Your coach is still screaming get out there. You look at your Turkish teammate and ask, “What did coach say?”

And he says, “This Powerplay you skate.”

Are you feeling a little off? Is your hammy tight? Forget it. You better have your foot hanging off your body if you want more than a 15 second rest.

Highlight of a Goal I Scored From a Local Sports Network

I also quickly learned that you don’t ask, “Why?” in Turkey about a certain call. Any word in the English language spoken at or near a referee is an automatic ten minute major.  Even the Turkish guys who speak English, you’d ask them, “Why are they doing that? It makes no sense.”

The response was always the same. A little shoulder shrug, then, “its Turkey.”

The language barrier made everything unintentionally hilarious. In a normal locker room, everybody’s yelling back and forth, messing around with one another. In Turkey, the language barrier makes it really hard, but you still do your best.  Before a game, all you can do is say, “Gel! Gel” which is like, “Pass! Pass!” in Turkey.  

Ahmet was my translator for when the coach would talk to the team. So many times, the head coach would be going nuts, screaming in Turkish for a solid 10 minutes in between periods.

Every 30 seconds, Ahmet would turn to me and just say, “Wake dee fahhk up, you guys terrible.”

25 Goals and 14 Assists in 23 games

I bit my tongue trying to not laugh all year. There were so many times when I said to myself, “Man, I wish my friends back home could see this, because they’re not going to believe the stories when I tell them about the Türkiye Buz Hokeyi Federasyonu DİDİ Süper Lig.”

It was such a raw, real experience.  You don’t necessarily realize that US hockey is such a bubble until you travel to a very, very different culture. It puts not just your career, but your life into perspective.

It’s a funny cycle because you make it to a fairly nice program and you get some perks like plane rides, but it’s not real life. It’s almost like I went back to the start — the way it was when you were coming up in high school or juniors on the long bus rides and the stinky hotel rooms with your buddies.

After a while, a few of the guys became my great friends. You’re all thrown together in the foxhole and are forced to figure each other out. They took me to the grocery store and ordered food for me: This is pretty good. Don’t eat this. This is sheep intestine. It’s kind of weird, but it grows on you.

Turkish Professional Ice Hockey

It’s almost like a throwback to the college dorm. We’d all be sitting on the floor of some awful hotel room eating 10 bags of chips and watching youtube, talking about how miserable the bus ride was going to be after the game.

It sounds insane, but it actually reminds you of why you fell in love with the game of hockey in the first place.

So let me say this to any hockey players reading this who are considering playing in Turkey: If nothing else, it’s worth it purely for the happiness you will feel for the first 10 days you get back home.

My season ended this year in mid-January. I landed back in Vermont at the absolute apex of the dark winter hell. All these folks are walking around all mopey and depressed and I’m skipping around like a school boy.

That was my face for 10 straight days. I was talking to everyone I passed on the street like a maniac. “Hello! Hi! What a day, huh? What a day!”

People were looking at me like, “What the hell is wrong with this guy?”

I mean, the things you take for granted are unbelievable. Pulled Pork. Oh my god. Sour cream. Tacos. Bacon. Warm, delicious breakfast sandwiches.

But the first thing I did was grab my gear and hit the rink playing for our local town team against Burlington.

I sit on the bench. Smiling like a lunatic at my little brother Jon.

He looks at me.

“What the fahhk is wrong with you, man?”

“Turkey.”

“Turkey?.”

“Turkey.”

“How was it?”

“It was hell. I loved it.”

Turkey to Hungary Road Trip

Turkey to Hungary Road Trip

Turkey, Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, and Romania

A boyhood in rural Vermont wasn’t bad preparation for family vacation road trips through countries with questionable driving records.  My training as a future Turkish driver began on our family’s farm at ten years old-old enough to reach the foot throttle on the logging winch, to be precise.  From this early training, I experienced quite a few not-so tame accidents moving the John Deere tractor down our woods roads.  Little wonder that Mom would bundle up my little brother into our Buick station wagon late at night and go looking for us when we weren’t home on time.  On those occasions, we’d always meet her somewhere along the way with one last load of logs or firewood. 

Dad is an expert on the roadway, his conduct guided by a career trucking propane and over fifty years volunteering for the local fire department.  He collected war stories of his adventures and heroics along the way:  the one where he spun backwards down Hillcrest Terrace with 2500 gallons of fuel in his bulk tank (the road has been closed every winter since); or the one where he wrecked a brand new fire truck trying to rescue folks during a snow storm (days after the department had deemed the engine “Robert Grace Engine Company” in tribute to his long tenure).

Dad taught me how to drive in every conceivable weather and road condition.  Having the wit and courage to steer into the slide on an icy road when every bit of you wants to steer the other way, is a requirement in Vermont after all.  Later I graduated into skidding logs up long hills in the pouring rain, because with my Pops, we always had time for one more load.

While posted to Ankara, I quickly experienced the relentless and unforgiving roads of the region.  In such terrain there’s not a road or traffic “laws” in the ordinary sense such as lanes or right of way.  Whoever gets there first cuts the track so to say.  “If you can drive in Turkey, you can drive anywhere in the world,” folks would say at the Embassy.  I used to laugh when I heard that phrase, but once I learned how to drive, I knew exactly what they meant.  If you have ever dreamed of being a race car driver, loved playing bumper cars at the fun parks and enjoyed playing tag as a kid, driving in Turkey is the three games rolled in to one crazy experience.  It’s common to see cars driving the wrong way, running red lights, and zigzagging across wide roads without the slightest regard to lane markings.

Properly prepared, road trips quickly become our preferred holiday. There’s something cool about driving a car in a different country and exploring places off the beaten track.  Then when a family and friends reunion at a castle in Tét, Hungary materialized, the car became our only logical choice for the adventure.  However, while a Turkey to Hungary road trip along single cliff-top roads, highways without any barriers, and the steepest turns you could imagine can be incredibly beautiful and exciting to drive on, soon after everyone had piled into the car we were harshly reminded of the dangers as well.

From around the road’s bend: a shriek of metal, a cloud of smoke, a bus came careening at our car head on. We swerve madly for a near miss. Then I see the accident: a jacked up truck in pieces.  Jennilou must have sensed my silent tantrum because she turned around to look at me.  “Is everything OK,” she murmured before drifting back to sleep.  Awaken by the veer; I searched the girls’ eyes for any indication of fear or pain. I only see a kind confusion, which turned my exasperation to compassion at their naivety.

“Hi Mom.”

“Hi honey! We’re so glad you called – we’ve been worried sick about you guys,” she cooed from the other end of the scratchy connection.  Scrunched into a tiny pizza joint in Belfast, I didn’t forget for a moment that we were speaking from opposite edges of the earth.

“We board our flight to Budapest in a few minutes.  Will you guys be there to greet us?” came an enthusiastic query.

“You bet Mom” It took me a second to get used to thinking in US time, “when do you arrive again?”

“When was it again Jonny? Right…10:30pm.”

I pictured the terminal in Burlington, Vermont and thought about the two employees working there: one who sat at the counter stacking tickets into elaborate structures while avoiding eye contact with anyone resembling a customer, the other marching in and out of the solo jet way door as if it would disappear if left unattended for two minutes. “Of course, Mom, we will be there”

There was a long pause. I struggled between a million stories, tried to grasp something that she could picture: toothless street vendors selling buckets of oranges, mountains of flowers and home-baked bread in the town squares, boys kicking old soccer balls in abandoned basketball courts at the foot of mountains.

“How are you guys doing?” she asked.

“Right on schedule”, I reported.  “Just one more border crossing and we are finally to Hungary.”

“That’s wonderful!” she sounded positively delighted, “I don’t know why you do such crazy things sometimes.”

“Kath! He saved $500 bucks!” retorted my father aggravated.

“You guys have any trouble along the way?” she probed as if to prove this hadn’t been the greatest idea my Dad and I seemed to make it out as.

“No. Actually …” I shouldn’t tell her.

“Really? That’s fantastic Jeffrey.”

Don’t tell her.

Pause. “Well this truck….”

Idiot.

“Actually, Mom, don’t worry about it.”

“No, I want to know.”

“It’s okay. I’ve actually got to go. I’ll see you soon ma …”

Click.

We ended our journey at a crescent-shaped lip parking lot outside our AirBnb in a quiet Budapest neighborhood. I rested my right foot on the gloriously still ground, and peeled my reluctant fingers from their desperate steering wheel clench.  My eyes wandered off the jutted edge, and a wave of beauty pummeled my unprepared eyes as the girls sprang from the car excited to see their grandparents for the first time in over a year.  That wasn’t so bad, I thought. The physical toll of long hours driving in strange territory is terrific: In the course of two weeks and nine countries, thirty five new hairs turned gray forever.  Driving those long hours left me with tightness in my back that lingered long after I returned home. When it finally cleared, though, I was a bit sad to feel it go. The psychological effects of completing our trip have lasted even longer.  Navigating those unfamiliar roads has left me restless for unusual territory, and gave me the fortitude to give it go.  We have driven many places in the region since. But on that day, on a winding mountain road in rural Bulgaria, a blue truck was crushed and a driver was killed instantly.  Every now and then, I still see that smoking truck hurtling at me in dreams, but after our trip, the accident has became less of a nightmare and more of an inspiration and reminder to cherish the time we do have.  After all, a pack of Graces had lived another day to reunite together half way around the world.

Dads First Time Swimming

Kalkan, Kas, Fetiyhe, Dalyan, Marmaris, and Pamukkale Family Vacation

My family is made up of working-class Vermonters; almost all of us live in the same town, and many of us are afraid of driving on highways with more than one lane. On the rare occasion that we traveled out of state, it was in caravans on our way to summer vacation in Maine; we also took a trip to Disney World when I was a child. As a bit of an outlier, my father had seen the world in ways I could only imagine during the Vietnam War.  However, at nearly 70 years old he’d never swam in the ocean. He had been to the ocean before, had even put his feet in the water, but had never worked up the nerve to dive in and swim. 

Much to my astonishment, my father had agreed to stuff his backpack borrowed from my brother and set out with us for holiday along the Turkish Riviera. It was a blistering sunny day in Dalyan, which meant from my vantage point, I could only see his slouching silhouette shining as I looked up from the Aegean Sea. The body was so familiar, that frame which looks forward to a hard day’s work, his bare head, and the points of his forty year old mustache.  I grabbed a Styrofoam noodle to steady myself and watched my father in silence as he prepared to descend into the ocean.

For me, it was one those experiences where you’re filled with some extravagant feeling you might never have had, because you live in a world that doesn’t allow you to compute so naturally, a world filled with walls and wood and constructions to close you in, to hide your imperfections, your calluses, your anxiety.  It doesn’t matter that you’re also feeling guilty because he doesn’t see you watching him face his fear.

Slowly feeling his way across the deck of the boat, taking off his cloths, placing each one carefully on the bench beside him, waiting until the stairs had been lowered, with three noodles in his hand, he began his descent.  Finally, he squeezed his eyes shut, slipped his hands from the rungs and dove into a wave, letting it buoy his body forward. He flapped his arms, kicked his legs, and, before I knew it, he opened his eyes right in front of him. He wrapped his arms around me and smiled. He licked his salty lips and asked why his eyes didn’t hurt.  “Well, it’s not chlorine,” I said. I ducked under his arms before another wave hit. Before long, every bit of insecurity seemed to float away. He was swimming in the ocean for the first time, beside his son and granddaughters.

I’d like to think my parents deliberately raised a man who prioritizes adventure; and for them the moment wasn’t extravagant, but their plan all along.  After all, think of all the things we’d got to do together for the first time.

Kalkan, Kas, Fetiyhe, Dalyan, Marmaris, and Pamukkale Family Vacation

Our 10 Favorite Historical Places

Our 10 Favorite Historical Places Around the World

Everyone views splendor in different ways. What one person considers beautiful may be completely different to another.  Our favorite historical places are, in their own right, beautiful.  Consisting of everything from individual monuments and temples to entire religious complexes, they are some of the most stunning places on earth.

Favorite Historical Places #10 – Forbidden City – Beijing, China

The Forbidden City is the best-preserved imperial palace in China, the largest ancient palatial structure in the world, and the essence and culmination of traditional Chinese architectural accomplishment.  This might explain the hoards of people itching for a peek.

Forbidden City

Favorite Historical Places #9 – Luang Prabang, Laos

According to legend the Buddha smiled when he rested in Luang Prabang for a day during his travels, prophesying that it would one day be the location of a rich and powerful city.  The spectacle of the ancient temples is apparent at first glance; the unassuming nature of the locals, given the chance, will also leave a lasting impression.

Luang Prabang

Favorite Historical Places #8 – Copán Ruins, Honduras

The Maya site of Copán is one of the most important sites of the Mayan civilization.  The lengthy inscription on the Hieroglyphic Stairway, the longest inscribed text in the Maya region, allowed archeologists to crack the ancient language.  The town of Copán, adjacent to the ruins, is a beautiful place paved with cobblestones and lined with white adobe buildings with red-tiled roofs.  Go for the ruins and stay for the town.

Copan Ruins, Honduras

Favorite Historical Places #7 – Hagia Sophia – Istanbul, Turkey

The Hagia Sophia is an architectural beauty and an important monument for both Byzantine and for Ottoman Empires. Once a church, later a mosque, and now a museum at the Turkish Republic, Hagia Sophia has always been a jewel of its time.

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul, Turkey

Favorite Historical Places #6 – Acropolis – Athens, Greece

The Acropolis of Athens and its monuments are universal symbols that form the greatest architectural and artistic complex bestowed by the ancient Greeks to the world.

Acropolis - Athens, Greece

Favorite Historical Places #5 – Banaue Rice Terraces, Philippines

Carved out of the hillside by Ifugao tribes people 3000 years ago to provide level steps where the natives plant rice, the Banaue Rice Terraces stretch like stepping stones to the sky, with some reaching an altitude of 5000ft).  It is considered one of mankind’s greatest engineering feats.

Banaue Rice Terraces

Favorite Historical Places #4 – Bagan, Myanmar

Tucked away in central Myanmar and home to more than 2,000 temples, Bagan’s beauty and historical significance is unsurpassed.  On the banks of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, the site home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins in the world, many dating from the 11th and 12th centuries.

Bagan, Myanmar

Favorite Historical Places #3 – Angkor Wat – Siem Reap, Cambodia

In 1860, missionaries came across the ruins in the Cambodian jungle and discovered a lost city twice as large as Manhattan.  Angkor Wat is actually just one of more than a dozen magnificent temples in the vast metropolis of Angkor, the capital of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th centuries.  The temple complex is the largest religious monument in the world and absolutely incredible.

Angkor Wat

Favorite Historical Places #2 – Machu Picchu, Peru

An extraordinarily beautiful setting, it’s no wonder Machu Picchu is Peru’s most-visited site.  Dating to the mid-1400s, it’s a marvel of mortar-free limestone architecture perched on a high plateau in the middle of a tropical mountain forest.  Its giant walls, terraces and ramps cut into rock cliffs are the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire.

Machu Picchu

Favorite Historical Places #1 – Great Wall, China

To this day, the Great Wall continues to be the world’s largest military structure.  It is also, the greatest tourist attraction in the World and the goal of millions.  It will not disappoint.

The Great Wall of China


Our 10 Favorite Historical Places

Balkans, Peloponnese, and Dodecanese Oh My

Itinerary

Hedonism, Yugo’s, and Sultans

Three Weeks (August 25th – September 14th, 2010)

Beginning with an international flight to Athens, we spent a couple of days exploring the ancient Acropolis and museums, before grabbing a rental car in Piraeus. Heading north, we made a stop at the ruins of Delphi on our way to Meteora to boggle at 14th century monasteries perched on rocky cliff tops. In the afternoon, we headed to Florina for the night before making our way in the morning to the Medzhitlija border crossing to leave our rental and catch a taxi into Macedonia and the majestic monastery on Lake Ohrid. Next we grabbed our car at the border and made our way to the medieval fortress of Ioannina for the night. In the morning, we stashed our car again at the Kakavia – Ktismata Border Crossing and caught a taxi to Sarandë for a couple days on the Albanian Riviera.

Capture

Next, we drove south to do a loop of the Peloponnese. That evening, we visited the sanctuary of Ancient Olympia and stood in the stadium that hosted the first Olympic Games. We stayed overnight in the town and took in some of the excellent museums. In the morning, we grabbed breakfast in Kyparissia, spent the afternoon lazing on Voidokilia beach, and made our way into spectacular Monemvasia for a night exploring the medieval cobbled alley-ways within the walls of its medieval town. In the morning, we drove south and took the ferry to Elafonisos, spending the afternoon lazing on Simos Beach, before heading north for the night to Venetian Nafplio with its mansions, museums and lively port. The next day, we drove to ancient heavyweight Mycenae and Apollo’s temple in Corinth, before dropping the rental back in Piraeus.

Capture 2

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That evening, we took the evening ferry for an island hopping expedition to volcanic Santorini and the medieval island of Rhodes.

Capture 3

After a speed boat to Marmaris, we headed north up the Aegean coast, to Ephesus (Efes), home to the scarce remains of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Our final leg north landed us in İstanbul, one of the world’s great cities, whose highlights include the Topkapı Palace, Aya Sofya and Blue Mosque.

Capture 4

Budget = $2,700 / Person (Traveling with Three People)

Flight - Boston to Athens & Istanbul to Boston$2700

Car, Bus, Boat, Subway - Rental, Fuel, etc$2700

Lodging - Hostels, Hotels$2700

Food$2700

Activities - Entrance Fees, Bungee, Water Park, Museums, Bars, etc.$2700